1988 Noble Champagne Grand Cru Brut

98 POINTS: Even more nuanced and detailed than the 1989, this is dark and brambly in tone, with a multifaceted presence and a vibrant, saline energy. It’s remarkably fresh on the palate, even primary, with a supple, sophisticated texture and a refined poise. Its 30% of Verzenay Pinot Noir gives it a smoky, mysterious complexity on the palate, accompanied by a certain density and sense of dry extract, which imparts a sappiness and an almost tannic presence on the finish while remaining all marvellously wound together in a harmonious whole. This is a great wine, the superstar of the tasting along with the 1979, and even more than two decades after its disgorgement in June of 1998 it continues to appear impressively youthful and vibrant, even feeling as if it still has more to give with further ageing.