PIO CESARE
PIEDMONT, ITALY 2021
WHY BUY: This trio of single-vineyard wines from Pio Cesare’s 2021 portfolio (the 98-point Ornato, the 98-point Il Bricco, and the 97-point Mosconi) are drop-dead gorgeous examples of Barolo and Barbaresco, and represent excellent value at $170-$200/per bottle. The 2021 vintage delivered everything collectors dream about (namely, precision and tension, with some critics comparing the year to legends like 2016 and 2010), and all five of these wines display the definition and refined tannins that portend graceful aging in the cellar. We could go on all day about the pedigree of this historic estate (nearly 150 years in the business), and their devotion to multi-cru sourcing, and their insistence on minimal cellar intervention and letting the terroir speak for itself, but these details only just hint at what makes these wines so good. There’s magic in these bottles, truly.
WHAT THEY'RE SAYING: James Suckling has long had admiration and affection for the estate, and came away clearly smitten from his tasting of the 2021 class, awarding 98 points to both the Barbaresco "Il Bricco" (“intense,” he wrote, with "linear and long tannins" that are "polished and refined") and the Barolo "Ornato" (praising its "complex aromas" and "round and polished tannins" with a "very long aftertaste"). Wine Enthusiast not only gave 97 points to the Barolo “Mosconi” but reached for its highest register in its reviewing, writing that it "makes time stand still" with "elegant tannins, shaped by 30 months in French oak" that "descend like royalty on a grand staircase.” As for the entry-level Barolo and Barbaresco DOCGs, both earned 96 points from Suckling, with the Barolo earning praise for its "very powerful and structured" with a finish that "goes on and on," while the Barbaresco impressed him with its distinctive "aromas of iodine and oyster shell" alongside "firm and racy tannins."
OUR TASTING NOTES: This 2021 lineup reminds us, yet again, why Pio Cesare has such a devoted following. The entry-level Barolo and Barbaresco, at just $85 each, are made to sing, thanks to the artful, multi-cru blending that is the estate’s calling card; the Barolo brings serious power without heaviness, while the Barbaresco shows that distinctive mineral salinity that makes great Barbaresco so marvelously addictive. The single vineyards tell more elaborate stories. Il Bricco from the Treiso hillside combines intensity with refinement, and, for all its seemingly endless depth, exudes finesse and elegance. The Ornato from La Morra represents everything graceful about this commune; the tannins are substantial yet polished, and give the wine tension and a wonderful suppleness. But for us, it's the Mosconi from Monforte d'Alba that really made us sit up straighter. It’s a wine whose pleasures are both immediate and eternal.
THE STORY: When Cesare Pio started this operation, in 1881, it was with the most modest of goals: to make a selection of wines from Barolo and Barbaresco hills for his family and friends. The notion that one day his estate would become Piedmontese royalty was the furthest thing from his mind. But Pio's subsequent travels across Europe (documented by passport number 55, which is still displayed at the winery) planted the seeds for something more ambitious, and then the ancient cellars beneath Alba's streets worked their magic. Five generations later, the approach remains as refreshingly straightforward as it did in Pio’s day: limit yields, select grapes obsessively, intervene minimally. The late Pio Boffa always reminded people that blending grapes from multiple vineyards doesn't indicate compromise, that blending is an art form requiring more skill than single-vineyard bottling. Today, his successors (Federica Rosy Boffa and Cesare Benvenuto) continue that philosophy while recognizing when exceptional sites deserve standalone treatment. The result is, year after year, a roster of wines that improve rather than fade with time.
WHAT TO PAIR THEM WITH: These wines seem to have been designed for autumn in Italy. Think: rich risottos, hearty, wine-braised meats, and aged, ripened cheeses. But don't feel constrained by tradition. They make terrific matches, as well, with Korean barbecue and Mexican mole.
FUN FACT: Federica Boffa was just 23 when she assumed command of the winery in 2021, making her one of the wine world's youngest decision-makers.
OUR GUARANTEE: As always, we only buy and source directly from the estate to ensure that your wines will arrive with pristine provenance. These represent some of Piedmont's best values ... secure your bottles and cases today!
*Offer NOT valid in-store. This offer is made pre-arrival, with wines estimated to be delivered to your preferred store in Spring 2026. With the supply chain issues that we are seeing globally, there may be some unforeseen delays which could affect the ETA. All sale prices are the lowest available at Total Wine & More and ONLY valid through Concierge Sales. No further discounts or coupons may be applied. Offer not valid in DE, KS, MI, NE, NY, OK & TN. This offer will expire on Tuesday, December 30th, 2025.