OLIVIER LEFLAIVE
BURGUNDY, FRANCE 2023
WHY BUY:
These are throwback, minimal-intervention wines of proportionality and charm that represent some of the best values going in Burgundy — of the 10 wines we bring you today from Olivier Leflaive, no fewer than 5 are under $100 a bottle. Even better: all 10 are from 2023 — what Jancis Robinson declared to be a “generous vintage”; and that expansiveness and drinkability is on full display in these 6 minerally pure whites and 4 gorgeously finessed reds from Olivier’s 2023 portfolio, which capture the character of each Burgundian climat with his customary crystalline clarity. For that, we can thank his insistence on biodynamically farmed grapes, oak barrel fermentations, and aging on the lees.
OUR TASTING NOTES:
What strikes you immediately about these wines is their quiet confidence: the assurance and authority that comes from knowing exactly what you are. The whites fall into distinct camps that give a peek into Olivier's strategic thinking. The village-level wines like Meursault are more elevated than their status would suggest: there's genuine breadth here, subtle ginger-like spice weaving through mineral precision, creating wines that feel both generous and focused. Step up to the premier crus and the intensity ratchets up considerably. The Chassagne-Montrachet Abbaye de Morgeot delivers serious presence, with dried fruit concentration that speaks to careful vineyard selection and patient winemaking. Meanwhile, the Montagny Premier Cru offerings show why this southern Côte Chalonnaise appellation is deserving of greater attention than it gets; these wines practically vibrate with mineral energy, their bright acidity and floral character calling to mind top-tier Chablis. The reds operate in different territory entirely, serving up a concentrated (but nuanced, sophisticated) richness that coats your palate while maintaining the kind of structural elegance that separates good Burgundy from great Burgundy. In all, ten wines that improve everything they touch, while never losing sight of their essential Burgundian character.
THE STORY:
When Olivier launched his company in 1984, the négociant model was considered old-fashioned, even slightly disreputable. But Olivier saw something different: a chance to become the conductor of a Burgundy orchestra, working with the region's best growers rather than competing against them. (He also happened to have more than 250 years of winemaking history behind him: his family had been at it since 1717). The breakthrough came in 1988 when Franck Grux joined as winemaker. Grux understood that being a successful négociant meant more than just buying grapes; it required building relationships that resembled partnerships more than transactions. Over two decades, he cultivated connections with growers who shared their commitment to quality, creating a network that most estate producers could only dream of accessing. The real validation came in 2010, when Olivier and his brother Patrick finally received their family legacy: Grand Cru parcels in Chevalier-Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet, among others. Suddenly, the négociant who had spent decades proving he belonged was handed some of Burgundy's most prestigious real estate.
THE VINTAGE:
2023 was the hottest year on record, with significant challenges. But through careful vineyard management and selective picking, Leflaive triumphed. The wines possess remarkable concentration while somehow retaining the finesse that defines great Burgundy.
THE METHOD:
Olivier Leflaive practices minimal intervention winemaking, allowing the natural characteristics of each terroir to speak clearly, and loudly. The house employs biodynamic farming principles across all vineyards, considering each site as a separate living ecosystem. Traditional techniques define their approach: hand-harvesting, fermentation in French oak barrels from the Vosges, Allier, and Jura regions, and aging on the lees to build texture and complexity. Each wine undergoes individual plot-based vinification, with decisions made case-by-case to respect the unique character of every Climat. The house also works with multiple Burgundian coopers, to create different toast levels for different wines.
WHAT TO PAIR THEM WITH:
These are the ultimate food-friendly wines, guaranteed to enhance nearly any preparation. The village whites complement shellfish, roasted poultry, and creamy risottos, while the premier crus demand to be tin the company of the most sophisticated delicacies: lobster, truffles, aged Burgundian cheeses. For the Volnay reds, think: duck, lamb, or a rich and saucy beef bourguignon.
FUN FACT:
Olivier Leflaive did not initially embark upon a career in wine: his first path was music, as a booking agent and accountant for folk musicians, a life that consumed him for ten years.
OUR GUARANTEE:
As always, we only buy and source directly from the estate, so rest assured: your wines will arrive in your hands with pristine provenance. Don't delay in securing your bottles and cases now!
*Offer NOT valid in-store. This offer is made pre-arrival, with wines estimated to be delivered to your preferred store in Winter 2025. All sale prices are the lowest available at Total Wine & More and ONLY valid through Concierge Sales. No further discounts or coupons may be applied. The price reflected on your order form is subject to change after the order is placed in the event of a change in tariffs or taxes that are imposed by the U.S. government, or in the case of currency fluctuations of 10% or greater. Offer not valid in KS, MI, NE, NY, OK & TN. This offer is valid for TWO WEEKS, or until sold out, and will expire on Tuesday, July 29th, 2025.