MASTROBERARDINO
CAMPANIA, ITALY
WHY BUY: Short macerations for purity and lift, volcanic soils for authenticity, and prices that will have you doing double-takes: this is what endears us to Mastroberardino, one of the last great families in Campania doing things the traditional way. And the critics are right there with us, with Wine Enthusiast awarding 97 points to the 2018 Stiléma Taurasi Riserva (“irresistibly savory,” “powerful,” “polished”) and 96 points to the 2019 Stiléma Fiano (“subtle … satiny”). And please note: all of these great wines are just now entering their prime. The Stiléma Taurasis, we should note, will age for decades; the rest deliver immediate, irresistible pleasure. And trust us, folks: there’s plenty of pleasure to be had in these soulful, finely-crafted, lengthy wines. The whites, by the way, are going to be your go-to this summer — book it.
WHAT THEY'RE SAYING: Wine Enthusiast was in thrall to the 2018 Stiléma Taurasi Riserva, declaring it, in a 97-point rave, "irresistibly savory" with "juicy" and "powerful" character that's "polished" to perfection. It was taken, too, with the 2019 Stiléma Fiano, a 96-point wine it deemed "elegant," "subtle," and “satiny” and the 2019 Stilema Greco — an "exhilaration,” the magazine gushed, with aromatics of "vanilla, lemon and toasted nuts" and a "deep and toasty" palate that "at first blush, could pass for Burgundy." James Suckling reviewed the 2017 Radici Taurasi Riserva and came away impressed, awarding 96 points and hailing it as "complex and deep,” "layered and compact,” and with "a broad and velvety tannin structure."
OUR TASTING NOTES: The Stiléma white wines are proof that volcanic terroir isn't just industry hype; there's a real sense of time and place to these wines. The Greco reveals layers of mineral complexity that reveal themselves over time in the glass: citrus peel, wild herbs, and that distinctive volcanic salinity that marks the region’s best, most terroir-centered expressions. The Fiano demonstrates how this variety can achieve honeyed richness without collapsing into the syrupyness that lesser hands produce. The Taurasi bottlings, meanwhile, represent Aglianico at its most authoritative and compelling, and, as a sidebar, offering a window into the traditional methods that have long distinguished this house. In our recent tasting, we couldn’t put our glasses down, and kept finding new dimensions, new colorations in these wines. The Radici expressions bring an immediate appeal with their dark fruit intensity and polished tannins. The Stiléma Riservas operate on a different level entirely; these are wines built for the long haul, with the kind of structural integrity that develops over decades in bottle. Last but not least: the three-vintage vertical is a rich and layered story in three bottles, a story of how great volcanic terroir expresses itself across different growing seasons, and one that will stay with you long after you finish all three.
THE STORY: Indigeneity, tradition, stubborn authenticity: that's been the Mastroberardino story for nearly three centuries, a story of proud family loyalty to the native varieties of Campania. While other producers chased international grapes and modern techniques, this family doggedly maintained its commitment to Aglianico, Fiano, and Greco di Tufo, varieties that thrived in the volcanic soils around Mount Vesuvius long before anyone dreamed of Cabernet or Chardonnay. The Stilema project represents their most personal statement: a deliberate return to the winemaking methods that built their reputation in the 1950s and 70s, using shorter macerations, large neutral oak, and zero new wood sweetness to create old-school, old-soul wines that speak of the Campania of the past. Their m.o. has been, and remains, a complete indifference to trends and consultants. They never ripped out pre-phylloxera vines, never started using barriques and cultured yeast to chase perfect scores, and never went hard after market approval. And, as we and their many followers hope, they never, ever will.
WHAT TO PAIR THEM WITH: The whites make a kind of magic with seafood, particularly shellfish and grilled fish, while the Taurasi expressions call for rich, savory preparations: a roasted lamb, a wild boar ragu, a long, slow braise of beef.
FUN FACT: Mastroberardino is involved in the Villa dei Misteri project, a fascinating attempt to recreate the ancient wines of Pompeii by replanting vineyards destroyed when Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD.
*Offer NOT valid in-store. This offer is made pre-arrival, with wines estimated to be delivered to your preferred store in Spring 2026. With the supply chain issues that we are seeing globally, there may be some unforeseen delays which could affect the ETA. All sale prices are the lowest available at Total Wine & More and ONLY valid through Concierge Sales. No further discounts or coupons may be applied. Offer not valid in KS, MI, NE, NM, NY, OK & TN. This offer will expire on Wednesday, February 4th, 2026.