99-pt. Masseto 2023 — the Tuscan Icon Triumphs Again!

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MASSETO

TUSCANY, ITALY 2023
 

WHY BUY: Masseto is an annual event, and the 2023 release is cause for major celebration, folks: a near-perfect, 99-point expression of a great vintage in Tuscany, from one of the most storied producers the world has ever known, Ornellaia. Aged for a whopping 36 months at the estate, this wine has everything, and in absolute abundance: aromatics, depth, power, control, precision, definition, length, and that certain something that lifts great wines into the dimension of the ethereal. Pair it with their “second wine," Massetino, sourced from the same blue clay hillside as the flagship, for a delicious and memorable one-two that covers everyday drinking and the special occasion alike.

WHAT THEY'RE SAYING: “Deeply expressive and layered,” Jeb Dunnuck wrote of the 2023 Masseto, in his 99-point tone poem of a review, calling out its aromas of "wet stone, mint, vanilla, and petrichor” and its "striking sense of chalky minerality.” A wine, he went on, of "power without weight," where "opulence" meets “restraint,” the tannins are "finely structured," the acidity "vibrant,” and the length “profound."

OUR TASTING NOTES: You know those wines that don’t open up in the glass so much as unfold, little by little, giving you more and more of their story, which, as it turns out, is a rich and layered tale? That’s this one. It begins with stone, cool and mineral. Then come the herbs, rosemary and something greener, juniper maybe, before the fruit finally shows itself: dark cherries, a hint of blackberries, and an unmistakable note of cacao. This is a big wine, rich and textured and generous, and yet it never tips into cheap opulence. Its acidity, its minerality, and those well-handled tannins keep it lifted and precise, and give it a quality of danceability, of nimbleness. And the finish — well, as they say in the South, it just keeps keeping on, and on, and on. Above all, though, it remains a gorgeous mystery, never yielding all its secrets. Massetino is a more immediate pleasure. It comes from the same blue clay that birthed the Masseto, and the same hillside, too. What’s different here is that the fruit is brighter, and the attack more approachable. But that texture! And the length — so long and sinuous!

THE STORY: The aforementioned hill takes its name from massi, the rock-hard clusters of blue clay that surface across the vineyard, the same geological quirk that shapes the soils of Château Pétrus on the other side of the Atlantic coast. Lodovico Antinori spotted the potential for this patch of land in the 1980s, and planted Merlot on it almost as an experiment. And then he watched that experiment go on to become one of the most sought-after wines on the planet. Masseto now exists as its own estate and label, separate from its sibling Ornellaia. Massetino arrived later. Its first release was the 2017 vintage. Built from younger vines and specific parcels that don't make the exacting cut for the flagship, it spends roughly a year in French oak, partly new, then is given a short stint in concrete (compared to 36 months total for Masseto). This is a wine that’s built to do the exact opposite of what Masseto is; a wine meant to convey freshness, energy, and lift, as opposed to monumentality and awe.

WHAT TO PAIR THEM WITH: The Masseto is perhaps best appreciated on its own or alongside something simple and rich, a dry-aged ribeye, say, or a a plate of aged pecorino. Think of Massetino as the sociable wine: the wine that brings a table together. It’s a terrific partner for braised short ribs, a two-mushroom risotto, or a proper charcuterie spread.

FUN FACT: The vineyard has been all-organic since 2012, and the new facilities were designed, according to the Wine Investment website, for a climate-challenged future: “its numerous tanks are small enough that parcels can be vinified separately, and the site-specific finessing is even more granular at the barrel level, where the team can compare wines from plots with different soil management and training systems."

OUR GUARANTEE: As always, we only buy and source directly from the estate, so you can be confident that your wines will arrive in your hands with pristine provenance. Secure your bottles and cases today!

 

 

*Offer NOT valid in-store. This offer is made pre-arrival, with wines estimated to be delivered to your preferred store in Spring 2027. With the supply chain issues that we are seeing globally, there may be some unforeseen delays which could affect the ETA. All sale prices are the lowest available at Total Wine & More and ONLY valid through Concierge Sales. No further discounts or coupons may be applied. Offer not valid in KS, MI, NE, NY, OK, or TN. This offer will expire on Sunday, September 6th, 2026.