GIACOMO BORGONO & FIGLI
PIEDMONT, ITALY
WHY BUY: This astonishing vertical, from a producer that was crafting wine while Mozart was a toddler, and that has long been one of Italy’s most revered houses, represents something genuinely extraordinary: a time machine spanning 36 years, from 1982-2018. These are old-old-school Barolos that, historically, have only gotten better and better with age, and we can report that they’re all showing beautifully at the moment. This is a rarity of an opportunity, and one you’ll want to take advantage of fully. And please note: each of these Riservas has been kept in cellar, in pristine condition, in Piedmont, and will be shipped to you in made-to-order cases.
THE CONTEXT: This is a chance to witness the graceful evolution of one of the benchmarks for Barolo, from its stalwart traditionalist roots (the big, brooding, contemplative wines of the 1980s, 90s, and early aughts) to its current incarnation under brilliant young winemaker Andrea Farinetti as an estate that delivers finesse and expressiveness, thanks to Farinetti's program of organic farming, spontaneous fermentation, and sacred 50-day macerations. So, both the gravitas of fully mature classics and the electric promise of a new generation finding its voice.
WHAT THEY’RE SAYING: James Suckling awarded 97 points to the 2016, hailing its “complex aromas of plums, dried strawberries, white truffle, and bark” and noting that it will be "even better in three to six years." That review appeared in 2023 — which is to say, it's hitting its stride right now. The critic was nearly as taken with the 2017, a 96-pointer he called "layered and broad, with fine tannins that are firm and vibrant at the same time. Fine-tuned and spicy with vivid acidity.” Decanter weighed in on the oldest wine in this collection, the 1982 Riserva, awarding this four-decade-old wine 96 points: a wine, it wrote, "still very much alive, full of chestnut, tobacco, damp earth and meaty scents,” with a “delightfully elegant, complex character."
OUR TASTING NOTES: These wines trace the evolution from Borgogno's contemplative old style to Farinetti's more modern approach. The earlier vintages (that magnificent 1982, the brooding 1985, the structured 1998, built on Nebbiolo from the hallowed Cannubi and List vineyards) showcase traditional Barolo at its most compelling: wines that demanded your patience and rewarded it with layers of tobacco, leather, and earth that seemed to go on forever. The pre-Farinetti 2000s represent a kind of bridge period: still maintaining those signature 50-day macerations and Slavonian oak aging, but beginning to show more immediate pleasures … more approachability, more charm. Think of them as Barolo's awkward teenage years, when the wines were figuring out how to be both serious and approachable. With the Farinetti era, beginning around 2010, you can see the evolution toward a new epoch, one built upon organic farming to achieve more purity of expression and spontaneous fermentation in concrete to bring more vibrancy. These recent vintages offer the best of both worlds: the profound complexity that made Borgogno legendary, wrapped in a package that doesn't require a decade of cellaring to enjoy.
THE STORY: Picture this: it's 2007, and the Farinetti family, the clan behind the famed Eataly empire, decide to purchase one of Italy's most venerable wine estates. An out-of-the-blue move from retail food moguls, but then again, Oscar Farinetti has never been accused of thinking small. The really audacious part comes next. After acquiring this 246-year-old institution, Oscar hands the keys over to his 20-year-old son Andrea, fresh out of wine school. It's the kind of nepotistic handover that you see time and again in high-level industries. But here’s the unforeseen thing: the kid turns out to be a prodigy. Andrea Farinetti understood something that escapes most young winemakers thrust into historic situations. Instead of blowing up centuries of tradition, he became its most thoughtful curator. Think of it as the wine world equivalent of a master chef who honors his grandmother's recipes while quietly perfecting (and lightening) the techniques. The transformation began with small, almost invisible changes. Organic farming in 2015. A return to spontaneous fermentation in concrete tanks. The restoration of original cellars. Each move seemed modest, but together they represented a complete philosophical shift, from old-school Italian patriarchy to enlightened traditionalism.
FUN FACT: Borgogno's underground cellars contain what might just be the most impressive library collection in all of Barolo. When Cesare Borgogno took over in 1920, he instituted a policy of holding back half of each vintage's production for at least 20 years of aging. Astonishingly, more than a century later, the program remains in place.
OUR GUARANTEE: As always, pristine provenance is of the utmost importance to us. You can rest assured that your wines (shipped direct from Piedmont, and packed in made-to-order cases) will arrive in your hands with pristine provenance. Secure your order of these legendary wines today!
*Offer NOT valid in-store. This offer is made pre-arrival, with wines estimated to be delivered to your preferred store in Spring 2026. All sale prices are the lowest available at Total Wine & More and ONLY valid through Concierge Sales. No further discounts or coupons may be applied. The price reflected on your order form is subject to change after the order is placed in the event of a change in tariffs or taxes that are imposed by the U.S. government, or in the case of currency fluctuations of 10% or greater. Offer not valid in KS, MI, NE, NY, OK & TN. This offer will expire on Tuesday, October 7th, 2025.