Fontanafredda, 1982-2017 — Aged in Barolo, Ready to Drink NOW!

WHY BUY: Back-vintage greatness from the Italian master, Fontanafredda — capped by an outstanding 1996 vintage and a 1982 vintage that has achieved the status of legendary. These wines represent everything that makes us geek out about Fontanafredda: the royal pedigree that reads like an epic myth, the monopole status of their MGA that wine nerds dream about, those ancient cellars where time works its magic on Nebbiolo. The 2017 and 2016 show the estate's contemporary mastery in full flower, while the 1996 and 1982 offer that rarest of pleasures: fully mature Barolo from one of the region's most storied producers, wines that have spent decades developing the kind of complexity that separates great Barolo from merely good wine. 

WHAT THEY'RE SAYING: Decanter swooned over the Barolo Vigna La Rosa DOCG 2016, awarding 97 points and hailing it for its "resplendent" nose and calling it "rich and broad, concentrated and succulent," a wine of "tension as well as weight ... Brilliant wine!" Wine Enthusiast, reviewing the 95-point Barolo MGA DOCG 2017, was captivated by a similar richness and balance, praising everything from the wine's "subtle, enticing nose" to its "elegantly structured... full-bodied... generous palate" with "tightly knit, refined tannins."

THE STORY: The iconic Fontanafredda knows a thing or two about prestige and nobility. After all, this is a winery that was, quite literally, anointed. In 1858, the first King of Italy, Vittorio Emanuele II, acquired 52 hectares of land at Fontanafredda, in the beautiful hills of the Langhe region. Wine soon followed. Two decades later, his son Emanuele opened an estate on the property, thus setting Fontanafredda on a course that would culminate in the estate's being crowned "European Winery of the Year" in 2007 by Wine Enthusiast and no less an eminence than Robert Parker lauding it as "one of the great names of Piedmontese winemaking.” In the ensuing years, this producer has only burnished its considerable reputation. Today, under the direction of winemaker Danilo Drocco, it is putting out some of the best and most widely-acclaimed wines in the entire region, led by their single-vineyard Barolo DOCG Riserva. What makes Fontanafredda unique (and significant) is its status in Barolo's hierarchy. The estate holds the only MGA (the Menzione Geografica Aggiuntiva, akin to the cru classification of France) named after a winery rather than a geographic location. Essentially, Fontanafredda is a monopole of Barolo, and controls an entire classified zone. This gives them unparalleled control over their terroir, allowing for the kind of consistent quality that is crucial to maintaining reputation. Their famous Vigna La Rosa vineyard within this MGA produces wines of particular grace: nuanced, floral expressions with the balanced acidity and elegant tannins that showcase Nebbiolo at its most refined.

OUR TASTING NOTES: The 2017 MGA represents Fontanafredda's house style at its most seductive. There’s immediate, sensual pleasure here, but also the structural backbone that promises decades of evolution ahead. The subtle aromatics unfold gradually, revealing layers of cherry, rose petal, and that distinctive Nebbiolo earthiness that makes us remember why we fell in love with Barolo in the first place. The 2016 Vigna La Rosa is why this vineyard has maintained such a cult following over so many decades. It’s a wine of power and length and persistence, but also remarkable finesse, and keeps you riveted with its grace notes.

As for the back, back, back vintages (apologies, Chris Berman) … The 1996 Riserva has had considerable time to develop its full personality, and boy, has it ever. The fruit has evolved into something infinitely complex, with tertiary aromas of leather, tobacco, and forest floor. But amazingly (and wonderfully) the berry flavors still remain, and they’re bright and vibrant. And then there’s the 1982. Honestly, we could write poetry about this wine. This represents the holy grail for Barolo collectors, a wine from a legendary vintage that has achieved perfect maturity while retaining enough structure to (yes) keep evolving. Tasting wines like this is why we do what we do; they carry the story of exceptional years in their very essence, and every sip feels like a conversation with history.

THE SPECS: The Barolo MGA DOCG 2017 represents the estate's signature terroir expression, crafted from 100% Nebbiolo from their monopole MGA zone in Serralunga d’Alba; the Barolo Vigna La Rosa DOCG 2016 comes from their most celebrated single vineyard within the MGA, which is renowned for producing wines of particular elegance and floral character. Both follow DOCG’s strict requirements, which include a minimum of 38 months aging, including 18 months in bottle. 

WHAT TO PAIR THEM WITH: With respect to the younger vintages, think Piedmontese cuisine in all its lusty richness — say, a beef braised in Barolobrasato al Barolo or a truffle-topped risotto. As for the mature Riservas, they deserve to be savored all by their lonesome, and in the company of true appreciators.

FUN FACT: When King Vittorio Emanuele II purchased Fontanafredda, he didn’t just have wine on his mind: he bought the estate as a love nest for his mistress Rosa Vercellana (nicknamed 'Bella Rosina'), making it perhaps the only winery in the world founded explicitly for romantic rendezvous.

OUR GUARANTEE: As always, we only buy and source directly from the estate, so rest assured that your wines arrive with pristine provenance. These back-vintage treasures represent rare opportunities to taste Barolo history. Secure yours today!