AZIENDA AGRICOLA ELVIO COGNO
PIEDMONT, ITALY
Piedmont is undeniably in the midst of a Golden Age in wine, and perhaps no estate's present and future is brighter than that of Elvio Cogno, which Vinous has described as being on "a tear of late [with] no signs whatsoever of slowing down." Its Barolos are consistently exceptional, but as critics and connoisseurs know: the best vintages are of a different order entirely, and in recent years some of them have been frankly breathtaking.
The 2018 vintage of their Ravera Barolo — made with grapes from the historical cru in Novello, and aged for 24 months in Slavonian oak — has yet to be rated, but we have every expectation it will meet, if not exceed, the reputation of the 2017. Wine Enthusiast raved about the latter, awarding 98 points and declaring it "stunning ... an enviable combination of elegance and power.”
Reason enough for our excitement this morning, but as the saying goes: wait, there's more!
We also have three others from their excellent-across-the-board portfolio, including the Cascina Nuova 2018 — an exceptional value at a best price of under $60 per bottle — and two more flat-out stunning values: the Montegrilli Langhe Rosso 2021 (which we're offering for a best price of under $32 per bottle) and the 'Anas-Cetta' Langhe Nascetta di Novello 2020 (a best price of under $28 per bottle).
The late Elvio Cogno had been making Barolo for a long time at the legendary Marcarini before he struck out on his own, in 1990, purchasing a parcel of land near Bricco Ravera and undertaking a thorough renovation of the heretofore ignored farmland. The goal then is the goal now: to produce terroir-driven wines with a laser-like focus on purity and elegance.
Today, the winemaking is in the hands of Cogno's son-in-law, Valter Fissore, who maintains the original vision of producing Barolo from only a single vineyard. Traditionally, Barolo has been the product of blends of Nebbiolo from different vineyards, but Fissore and others — the so-called new wave — have been rethinking these ancient and long-accepted practices. Their experiments with clonal selection have produced fascinating new insights, and, in Fissore's case in particular, stunning success. He has been growing four different Nebbiolo clones, on four different parcels, each with different climatic exposure. The result has been a remarkable two-fer: both a site-specific character and a rich complexity.
That painstaking detail and unswerving commitment to terroir is what makes these wines so energetic and distinctive, and so beloved.
And not just the top end wines. The lower end, here, is just as exciting. Depth, energy, freshness, length, structure — they're all there, and we were wowed, in our tasting, by how expressive they are, relative to their cost.
But then, why should we have been so surprised?
Elvio Cogno has been working this kind of magic for as long as we can remember — showing us the power and wonder that comes from making wine with exceeding care and complexity.
We're excited for you to see, and taste, for yourselves. But hurry; our allocation isn't large, and Barolos tend to go fast around here!
*Offer NOT valid in-store. This offer is made pre-arrival, with wines estimated to be delivered to your preferred store in Summer 2022. With the supply chain issues that we are seeing globally, there may be some unforeseen delays which could affect the ETA. All sale prices are the lowest available at Total Wine & More and ONLY valid through Concierge Sales. No further discounts or coupons may be applied. Offer not valid in MI, NY, or TN. This offer is for ONE WEEK, or until sold out, and will expire on Thursday, April 21, 2022.
