DuMOL
SONOMA, CALIFORNIA 2023
WHY BUY: DuMOL is the master of Russian River Valley terroir, producing some of the best and most rewarding Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in America, bar none, and their current crop of release from a stellar and cool 2023 vintage (including their 98-point MacIntyre Pinot Noir and three other 96-pointers) is thunderous proof. It’s no wonder this Sonoma standard-bearer with the garagiste soul inspires such fanatical devotion among collectors and sommeliers. The fact that allocations tend to vanish LIKE THAT — well, that just makes today's offer that much more of an event. Secure yours today!
WHAT THEY'RE SAYING: “So pure, vibrant and concentrated," James Suckling wrote, in his 98-point assessment of the MacIntyre Pinot Noir, a love letter that went on to extol its "gorgeous black fruit, minerals and savory spices." The trio of 96-pointers was a critical darling, too. The Isobel Charles Heintz Chardonnay earned that score from both Vinous and Wine Enthusiast, with the former noting that it "captures all the magic of this site in its oily texture and breadth." Suckling and Jeb Dunnuck likewise awarded 96 points to the Ryan Pinot Noir; Dunnuck hailed its "lovely richness, ripe tannins, and classic Russian River character." The Chloe Chardonnay was no less swooned over; Vinous, in its 96-point rave, praised its "distinctly tropical fruit profile" and "textured, opulent personality."
OUR TASTING NOTES: The MacIntyre Pinot operates in rarified air: only 975 cases were made, and at our recent tasting, we came away wowed. This is such a pure expression of Russian River Valley terroir, and beautifully — tastefully — realized. It combines enormous power and grace, like watching a heavyweight boxer execute perfect ballet moves. The two Chardonnays couldn't be more different: the Isobel has that mineral intensity that makes you understand why Charles Heintz Vineyard has such a glowing reputation, while the Chloe goes in a completely different direction, with stone fruit richness that never loses its vital, acid backbone. The Ryan Pinot has more earth in its personality; we loved the way its savory notes dipped and danced around red fruit in ways that seemed, to us, to be the quintessence of the Russian River Valley. The Wester Reach Pinot feels lighter on its feet but no less compelling, with aromatics that are so vivid and expressive that nosing it is its own pleasure; you could almost — almost — forget to sip it.
THE STORY: What started in 1996 as two guys with an old press in a garage has evolved into one of Russian River Valley's most celebrated producers. When Michael Verlander and Kerry Murphy launched DuMOL, they had little more than outsized ambition and a few barrels. Their stroke of genius came in 1999, when they brought on winemaker Andy Smith, whose apprenticeships under Paul Hobbs and Chardonnay virtuoso Ted Lemon would prove transformative. Smith's approach to Russian River Valley terroir is almost architectural in its precision: he draws from an array of distinctive sites to create wines of remarkable complexity. That this level of detail and care comes from a winery that started in a garage makes the story even more compelling. DuMOL may have joined the elite, but happily, for us, and for legions of collectors, too, they've never lost that original spirit of discovery.
WHAT TO PAIR THEM WITH: The MacIntyre all but demands a pan-seared duck breast or lamb with herbs de Provence … though you’d be just as happy to let it dance solo. Both Chardonnays work beautifully with lobster, risotto, or roast chicken. The Ryan Pinot pairs wonderfully with pan-roasted or grilled salmon, while the Wester Reach is a great call for a slow-cooked pork roast.
FUN FACT: If you're wondering about the name — a cheeky nod to Baudelaire, perhaps? — it's actually a mash-up of first winemaker Max Gasewicz's children's names: Duncan and Molly.