DUGAT-PY
BURGUNDY, FRANCE 2023
WHY BUY:
Most Burgundy lovers know Dugat-Py through its coveted Gevrey-Chambertin bottlings, but these polished, pure wines offer another side of the estate. Drawn from old-vine parcels across the Côte de Beaune and Hautes-Côtes, they showcase the same meticulous farming and low-yield philosophy that have made Dugat-Py one of Burgundy's most admired domaines. And while the grander wines command collectors' attention, these bottles remain something of an insider's secret, especially in the U.S., where allocations are exceptionally small. If you're on the hunt for authentic old-vine Burgundy from a benchmark producer, this is an exceedingly rare opportunity.
The first thing you notice across the reds is a density that feels natural and not at all willed. Loïc Dugat-Py is fond of using whole clusters, and it shows up most notably on the nose, with its hints of forest floor and white pepper. The fruit is forward and undeniable, and we love the way the notes of dark cherry and wild plum yield the floor to licorice and smoke. These are Burgundies of weight and character and gravitas, but there’s also a wonderful note of acidity in each that gives lift and freshness, and keeps the wines from becoming brooding, and a streak of iron and crushed stone that carries you to the finish. The Pommard, sourced from an old-vine site high on the Pommard slope, is the most structured of the group and the one that will benefit you most immediately to cellar. If you can wait that long; its depth and length are hard to resist diving into immediately. The Monthélie and Auxey-Duresses are rich with old-vine character and intensity, and are exactly the kind of wines you pour for that friend who sneers at village Burgundy, calling it thin. The whites are a study in contrasts: the Hautes-Côtes Blanc is brisk and clean, an aperitif wine, while the Epenotes is broader through the middle, and with a limestone tension that can keep you happy without food for pairing.
The Dugats have been making wine in Gevrey-Chambertin since the 17th century, but winemaker Loïc Dugat-Py believes it’s his great-grandmother who set the family on its current path. In the mid-20th century, she went through the family’s holdings with a keen eye for pruning, selecting only the smallest-berried, most concentrated strains of ancient Pinot Noir. That has shaped the house style ever since. Loic’s father, Bernard Dugat, favored heavy extraction, and employed 100% new oak on the most important wines. Loïc has opted for a different style, pulling the oak back to 30 to 50 percent on the top crus and easing back on the extraction. The power is still there, courtesy of those incredible old vines. But now there’s lift, and tension, and energy, and the wines are easier to enjoy young.
The Pommard demands something with heft and savor, say, a pan-seared duck breast with cherries, or a pot of coconut milk-braised short ribs, or even just a nice, thick wedge of Époisses. The Monthélie and Auxey-Duresses are meant for slightly lighter fare: a roast chicken, a pork loin with cream and mustard sauce. Pour the Epenotes Blanc with lobster or scallops, and open the Hautes-Côtes Blanc while everyone's still arriving and the gougères are just about to emerge from the oven.
Dugat-Py ages its wines in a 12th-century vaulted cellar originally built by the Abbey of Saint-Bénigne. The monks who dug it may have been gone for centuries, but the humidity and native yeasts of the cave still give character and definition to every barrel that resides there.
As always, we only buy and source directly from the producer to ensure that your wines arrive with pristine provenance. Allocations of Dugat-Py are, as always, in short supply. So, secure your bottles and cases today!
*Offer NOT valid in-store. This offer is made pre-arrival, with wines estimated to be delivered to your preferred store in Spring 2027. With the supply chain issues that we are seeing globally, there may be some unforeseen delays which could affect the ETA. All sale prices are the lowest available at Total Wine & More and ONLY valid through Concierge Sales. No further discounts or coupons may be applied. Offer only valid in AZ, CA, DE, FL, GA, MA, and TX. This offer will expire on Tuesday, October 20th, 2026.