CHAMPAGNE DE SAINT-GALL, 'ORPALE' BLANC DE BLANCS
CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE
This rare library release quintet of Orpale Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Bruts -- from the 96-point 2002 to the 2004, 2008, and 2012 vintages (all 95-point scorers) - is drinking supremely well right now, and we were struck, in our recent tastings, by the way they manage to seamlessly balance richness and acidity, depth and subtlety.
James Suckling hailed the 2002 as "beautiful and complex, dense and concentrated and silky"? He returned to that word, silky, for his review of the 2004, calling it "silky and elegant … with very soft bubbles” He summoned the characteristics of apple pie in writing about the 2008, singling out notes of cooked apples and unsalted butter, and reveling in the way that for all its "juicy" fruit, its “frame” is unmistakable.
De Saint-Gall is a growers cooperative, and it has always done things the right — translation: methodical, labor-intensive, no-corners-cut — way. The grapes for Orpale, their prestige cuvée, are 100% Chardonnay, and sourced from their much-in-demand holdings in the Côte des Blancs crus of Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Cramant, and Avize. As vital as the quality of that fruit is to these Champagnes, what makes them so distinctive is what happens to the grapes in the cellar. Unusual for the region, a significant portion of the grapes are not made to undergo malolactic fermentation. That accounts, in part, for the great clarity and precision of these Champagnes — the mineral character from the chalk-rich soils shines through. The other unusual process they undergo is 144 months — yes, truly — on the lees.
Grand Cru Champagne signifies wine of unsurpassed elegance, gorgeous aromatics, layered complexity, and sumptuous balance. Make those Grand Cru Champagnes from De Saint-Gall — and, ideally, their Orpale Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut — and we have entered a deep state of hypnotic suggestibility. We'll have all five vintages on hand for the next week only, at special Concierge Family prices, so stock up now!
*Offer NOT valid in-store. This offer is made pre-arrival, with wines estimated to be delivered to your preferred store in Winter 2024 (Dec. 21st - Mar. 20th, 2025). With the supply chain issues that we are seeing globally, there may be some unforeseen delays which could affect the ETA. All sale prices are the lowest available at Total Wine & More and ONLY valid through Concierge Sales. No further discounts or coupons may be applied. Offer not valid in KS, MI, NY, or TN. This offer is for ONE WEEK, or until sold out, and will expire on Sunday, September 15th, 2024.
