97-pt. Dal Forno Valpolicella Superiore — This ‘Baby Amarone’ is Already Walking!

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DAL FORNO ROMANO

VENETO, ITALY 2020
 

WHY BUY: There are maybe a handful of producers on earth whose wines are so singular that critics stop comparing them to anything else; Dal Forno is one of them, and their 97-point Valpolicella Superiore is among the best examples of their gift for making wines that taste like no other. A "baby Amarone,” it's dried using the same painstaking appassimento process as its big brother, and is dense and age-worthy, but there’s a freshness and energy that makes it openable right away. Little wonder that collectors tend to hoard it. We’re also proud to be able to bring you their 96-point Amarone, made from forty-year-old vines; this is a wine that goes fathoms deep, with a richness and depth that doesn’t forget to be nuanced and expressive, too. Mentored by the legendary Giuseppe Quintarelli, and anointed by Robert Parker as the “reference point" for Amarone and Valpolicella, Romano Dal Forno was so successful for so many years, his wines so distinctive, that Dal Forno came to, wrote Monica Larner of The Wine Advocate, "occupy [its] own school of stylistic expression" — about as high a compliment as exists in this industry.

WHAT THEY'RE SAYING: James Suckling lavished the Valpolicella Superiore Monte Lodoletta 2020 with 97 points, calling it "perfumed and elegant," with "zesty and velvety" texture, "creamy tannins," and a graphite-laced finish that shows real tension despite its concentration. Wine Spectator was taken with a similar sense of balance in the Amarone della Valpolicella 2018, a 96-pointer that drew praise for its "fragrant and enticing" character, "tightly meshed and focused" structure, and a "depth of flavor and length" balanced by "bright freshness and animation."

OUR TASTING NOTES:

  • The Valpolicella Superiore delivers an Amarone-like richness with a vivacity that makes it dangerously — nay, almost recklessly -- drinkable. After extended time in oak, it has emerged with that Dal Forno intensity we know and love, but it's the fresh red cherry lift running underneath that holds the key to its success, keeping it vital and alive, and pulling you back for another sip.
  • The Amarone, sourced from 40-year-old vines, opens with an almost electric intensity that moderates as it goes but somehow, and wonderfully, stays graceful all the way to the finish. The dominant nodes are wild berries, mocha, and clove, but dominant is perhaps too strong a word for the nuanced way that they arrive and recede. The fine, dusty tannins lend it real elegance, while the mineral backbone gives it character and dimension.

THE STORY: Romano Dal Forno didn't set out to become a winemaker. He was a grower then, in the early 1980s, and had become frustrated with the wine industry and its conventions. So what did he do? He decided to make his own instead. The rest is, quite literally, history. What followed was a craftsman's dogged pursuit of depth and intensity — though balanced, in this case, with impeccable skill through meticulous viticulture and extended aging. The estate sits on 65 acres in the village of Val D'Illasi, planted to indigenous varietals (Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Oseleta, and Croatina) that thrive in the area's loose, alluvial soil. Grapes are hand-harvested, rigorously sorted, and, to concentrate flavor and structure, dried using the appassimento method for weeks at a time. Romano has now handed most of the winemaking over to his son Marco, who has run the estate since 2020 with a vision toward "more precision,” while remaining faithful to the family's signature style. 

WHAT TO PAIR THEM WITH: The Monte Lodoletta will find harmony with any number of rich, hearty dishes, but particularly: braised short ribs, or a three-mushroom risotto with black truffle. The Amarone calls out for even more richness: a slow-braised osso buco, say, or a wild boar ragù, or a roasted goose with huckleberries.

FUN FACT: Since 2008, Dal Forno has used vacuum-sealed fermentation tanks. Why? To avoid the prospect of oxygen intruding upon the winemaking. With detail this obsessive, is it any wonder the wines develop such staggering depth?

OUR GUARANTEE: As always, we only source directly from the producer to ensure that your bottles arrive as they should: with pristine provenance guaranteed. Secure your bottles and cases today!

 

*Offer NOT valid in-store. This offer is made pre-arrival, with wines estimated to be delivered to your preferred store in Winter 2026 (Dec.21st - Mar. 20th, 2027). With the supply chain issues that we are seeing globally, there may be some unforeseen delays which could affect the ETA. All sale prices are the lowest available at Total Wine & More and ONLY valid through Concierge Sales. No further discounts or coupons may be applied. Offer not valid in IL, IN, KS, KY, MI, MO, NY, OK, or TN. This offer is valid for TWO WEEKS, or until sold out, and will expire on Monday, July 20th, 2026.