CLOS DES PAPES CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE
RHÔNE VALLEY, FRANCE 2023
THE HEADLINE: A near-perfect 99+ Châteauneuf-du-Pape from the benchmark estate Clos des Papes, which we’re offering here for the very first time.
WHY BUY: “A strong candidate for wine of the vintage,” The Wine Advocate wrote of the 99+-point 2023 Clos des Papes: an “exquisite” wine, it wrote, "wafting from the glass with a captivating bouquet of sweet red berries, iris, dark cherries, menthol, blood orange and flowers” and destined to "evolve with grace over the coming years.” This old-school, family-run Châteauneuf-du-Pape estate makes just one red wine a year, blended from 24 distinct parcels and farmed organically, with low yields and no new oak. That’s why this CDP is such a model of power, purity, and elegance, and conveys such an unmistakable sense of place.
OUR TASTING NOTES: Give it a few minutes in the glass and some light swirling, and more than just opening up, it will start to tell you stories. The nose is resonant, deep, and dimensional, from the hints of raspberry and ripe plum that arrive first to the rose petals and wild thyme that follow to the touch of pepper that lingers faintly on the tongue. This is a complex and nuanced wine with many traits, but perhaps the most remarkable is its poise. This is rare for a Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a wine, traditionally, of weight and heft. That’s not to say those properties are not here. They are, indeed, but they’re carried so lightly, and with a freshness and an energy that keeps you engaged all the way to the long, sustained finish. Likewise, the tannins are so well-handled and supple that you almost don’t even notice them. It’s hard to imagine that anyone could ever speak a word against this immensely likable and winning wine. But this is one to open up when you’re in the company of appreciators and enthusiasts. Or — just for yourself on a mellow night when all is right in your world.
THE STORY: The Avril family released its first wine under the Clos des Papes name in 1896, and Paul Avril helped to write the rules of the appellation itself. Today Paul-Vincent Avril (who joined in 1989, after stints at Mouton Rothschild, Domaines Ott in Provence, and Mount Mary in Australia) runs the estate as a “modern traditionalist”: with fruit picked and sorted by hand, only native yeasts used, and no outside consultants; all the effort here goes entirely (and admirably) to the flagships.
SPECS: Grenache predominates, with the remainder of the blend being made up, largely, of Mourvèdre and Syrah, with trace amounts of Counoise, Muscardin, Vaccarèse, and Cinsault. The grapes were destemmed and fermented with native yeast, and given 28 days of maceration. After which the wine aged for 12 months in large, seasoned oak foudres, with no new oak.
WHAT TO PAIR IT WITH: The natural partners here are roast rack of lamb with herbs and pan-seared duck breast with huckleberries. It’s also, and to its enormous credit, a wine that can sit through a long dinner with nothing at all on the plate.
FUN FACT: The estate’s name is actually to be taken literally. One of its key parcels sits beside the ruins of the 14th-century papal summer castle, which is enclosed by stone walls (otherwise known as a clos).
OUR GUARANTEE: As always, we only buy and source directly from the estate to ensure that your wine arrives as it should: with pristine provenance guarantee. Secure your bottles and cases today!
*Offer NOT valid in-store. This offer is made pre-arrival, with wines estimated to be delivered to your preferred store in Spring 2027. With the supply chain issues that we are seeing globally, there may be some unforeseen delays which could affect the ETA. All sale prices are the lowest available at Total Wine & More and ONLY valid through Concierge Sales. No further discounts or coupons may be applied. Offer not valid in GA, KS, MI, NC, NV, NY, OK & TN. This offer will expire on Thursday, November 26th, 2026.