CHÂTEAU PÉDESCLAUX, PAUILLAC

 

BORDEAUX, FRANCE 2017

 

 

Château Pédesclaux has been on a roll. Jeb Dunnuck anointed it an estate “on the serious upswing,” and in the four years since that judgment it only continues to burnish its reputation. No obstacles, it seems, can derail this Pauillac powerhouse.
 

As rich and expressive as the '16 we brought you earlier this year, their ‘17 is a potential 95-point wine, in the judgment of Wine Enthusiast's Roger Voss, who first tasted it in barrel, and we are delighted to be able to bring it to you this morning.
 

Founded in 1810 upon an achingly picturesque stretch of the Médoc, the estate is a Grand Cru Classé, its terroir among the most prized in all of Pauillac. As most critics would tell you, however, that terroir only began to deliver on its enormous potential in the past decade, when Jacky Lorenzetti, of Lilian Ladouys and Issan, bought Pédesclaux in 2009 and promptly set about changing the way it produced wine —  enlarging the vineyards, introducing laser sorting, converting all vineyard management to hand-only work, and insisting upon a rigorous, sometimes ruthless, process of grape selection.
 

The results have been dramatic, with vintage after vintage that can rival the best of Bordeaux, but with one crucial difference: they can be had for a third to a quarter of the price.
 

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (65%), Merlot (25%), Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, and aged in 40% new oak, the '17 is a classic Pauillac —  deep, layered, and voluptuous, but made in the fresh, unfussy style that distinguishes so many wines coming out of France these days.
 

In our tastings, I found it to be a big, juicy wine, with a striking bouquet of lilac and roses; ripened fruit; tempered tannins; and a welcome graphite presence that keeps things sharp and balanced. The Merlot performs admirable work in this mix, bringing an inviting softness and vibrance. There are hints of new oak, but nothing that asserts itself too strongly —  it retains its freshness through the elegant, mineral finish.
 

Voss called it a "generous wine [that] revels in its ripe Cabernet Sauvignon ... [with] firm tannins already fully integrated into the ripe blackberry fruit notes."
 

James Suckling, in a 94 point rave, singled out its "round, firm tannins," while noting that despite that it's "really spicy and flavorful."
 

He and others have written that its drinking window begins in 2022, which is one reason we're bringing it to you now. You can cellar it for the next 5-10 years if you like, or uncork it for hours of pure pleasure, alone or with a special meal (pair it with a seared duck breast and experience a kind of alchemical magic). Or —  even better —  buy a case and do a little of both!


 

 

*Offer NOT valid in-store. This offer is made pre-arrival, with wines estimated to be delivered to your preferred store in 8-12 Weeks. With the supply chain issues that we are seeing globally, there may be some unforeseen delays which could affect the ETA. All sale prices are the lowest available at Total Wine & More and ONLY valid through Concierge Sales. No further discounts or coupons may be applied. Offer not valid in MI, NY or TN. This offer is for ONE WEEK, or until sold out, and will expire on Sunday, April 24, 2022.