BILLECART-SALMON
CHAMPAGNE, FRANCE 2012
WHY BUY: Vintage Champagnes can be as majestic and ageworthy as the best of Bordeaux and Burgundy, and this pair (a 98-point Le Clos Saint-Hilaire Blanc de Noirs 2009 and a 97-point Champagne Cuvée Nicolas François 2012) from Billecart-Salmon, the cult hit, sommelier-favorite that Antonio Galloni declared in April has "never been better," is a thrilling testament. These are simply extraordinary wines, exuding rare maturity, grace, and balance, and delivering all the finesse we have come to know and love of this grand marque.
THE PEDIGREE: In 1999, the Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart 1959 was chosen "Champagne of the Millennium" by a committee of experts at a blind tasting in Stockholm that included 150 vintages from the world's top champagne producers. Second place? Its 1961 vintage.
WHAT THEY'RE SAYING: Antonio Galloni, writing in Vinous in April 2025, declared: "The significant increase in quality at Billecart-Salmon is no longer news, but it's still worth mentioning. Quite simply, the Champagnes here have never been better." Both wines in this collection commanded near-perfect scores. Vinous awarded the Le Clos Saint-Hilaire Blanc de Noirs 2009 a stunning 98 points, calling it "stellar" and noting, "I can't remember a young Clos Saint-Hilaire with this much sheer immediacy ... Blocking the malolactic fermentation further emphasizes energy. The 2009 finishes with mind-blowing purity and exceptional finesse." James Suckling gave it 98 points as well, while awarding the Cuvée Nicolas François 2012 an impressive 97 points, praising it as "complex... electric on the palate, which is creamy yet structured and focused, with a fine bead of bubbles and a zesty, tangy backbone of acidity” and a “long and tense finish."
THE STORY: Nicolas François Billecart and Élisabeth Salmon launched their estate in 1818 in the little town of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, deep in the heart of Champagne. It didn't take long for them to establish their reputation as one of the most respected names in the region, but the next phase of their development was the crucial one, the one that set the house on its present course: when they became a trusted, beloved brand, and endeared themselves to fans all over the world for the exacting quality and unerring consistency of their wines. The great English wine writer Tom Hyland has referred to Billecart-Salmon as the house that opts for "finesse over brute strength," and this is not just true, but also, we think, key to their timeless appeal. At a time when many Champagne houses are embracing a richer style, Billecart-Salmon stands out even more for the freshness and vivacity of its wines. Over the past decade, the family has made significant investments in the vineyards and in the cellar, and these have brought a new edge and energy to the winemaking. Let other houses chase power and intensity; Billecart-Salmon remains committed to finesse, producing wines that pirouette across the palate with extraordinary maturity and grace.
OUR TASTING NOTES:
The Le Clos Saint-Hilaire Blanc de Noirs 2009 (a 100% expression of Pinot Noir, vinified in oak barrels and with no malolactic fermentation) shows what seventeen years of development can achieve. Disgorged in January 2024, it retains striking vibrancy despite all that time in cellar, with aromatics that announce themselves immediately and a savory dimension that keeps drawing you back. As remarkable as the energy here is, it’s the purity that had us smacking the table in astonishment, and left us not just eager but giddy for another pour
The Cuvée Nicolas François 2012 (60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, all from premier and grand cru sites) spent a full decade on the lees, and it shows: the result weaves between richness and precision, delivering textural depth without sacrificing even an iota of the pinpoint-sharpness that the great ones all possess. Fifteen percent was vinified in oak barrels, adding a further element of dimension
THE SPECS:
Le Clos Saint-Hilaire Blanc de Noirs 2009: 100% Pinot Noir from a single parcel, vinified in oak barrels with no malolactic fermentation. This is the first vintage in which a magnum has been made available
Cuvée Nicolas François 2012: 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay from Grands and Premiers Crus in the Côte des Blancs and Montagne de Reims. It aged on the lees for 10 years before being disgorged.
FUN FACT: In his book The Champagne Guide 2014-2015, the Australian wine writer Tyson Stelzer gave Billecart-Salmon his highest score: 10 out of 10, a ranking only three other Champagne houses have ever managed to earn.
WHAT TO PAIR THEM WITH: Some wines exist to mark special occasions; Billecart-Salmon exists to create them. Which means you can roam freely in your imagination in coming up with matches. For us, these Champagnes possess the kind of versatility that makes magic with everything from shellfish and risottos to charcuterie and even, yes, Eggs Benedict.
*Offer NOT valid in-store. This offer is made pre-arrival, with wines estimated to be delivered to your preferred store in Winter 2025 (Dec. 21st - Mar. 20th, 2026). All sale prices are the lowest available at Total Wine & More and ONLY valid through Concierge Sales. No further discounts or coupons may be applied. The price reflected on your order form is subject to change after the order is placed in the event of a change in tariffs or taxes that are imposed by the U.S. government, or in the case of currency fluctuations of 10% or greater. Offer not valid in CO, DE, IN, KS, KY, MI, NE, NM, NY, OK, SC, & TN. This offer will expire on Thursday, October 30th, 2025.