2023 Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

96 POINTS: This was relatively closed out of barrel – imposing and powerful, but not seductive. A year after bottling, it has blossomed into stupendous wine with notes of ripe apricot, quince, marzipan and hay. It is undoubtedly substantial, with enormous amounts of extract and just enough acidity to balance it out. 'Chewy' is how Dauvissat described it, as if one wanted a knife and fork. This is special wine, but it is far from ready to drink. Give it 15 years and drink it over the next 40 after that.