2019 Hickinbotham Trueman Cabernet Sauvignon

97 POINTS: Hand picked 20–26 March. Destemmed and whole-berry sorted. Gently crushed into open-top fermenters, cold soaked and pumped over daily. 18 days on skins. Wild ferment. Basket pressed with light pressings added back to the free-run juice. Racked and returned twice during 15 months' maturation in fine-grain French barrels, 75% new. Flying winemaker Chris Carpenter is well versed in the sort of tannin management that defines his Californian expressions. Here, the piste is not as smooth, with a bit more edge to the framework; a little more greenery to the aromas. For the better. Cassis, pencil lead and dried tobacco leaf, to boot. The finish, long and thrumming; the tannic gristle etching fine grooves of tension with each sip. This will age beautifully.