2019 Edouard Delaunay Pommard 1er Cru Les Fremiers

In a world of $500-(and up)-a-bottle Burgundy, finding a Premier Cru that’s $125 seems—well, somewhat more reasonable. For, every now and then, it’s good to remind ourselves of Burgundy’s inimitable flavors and textures. Burgundy remains, after all, the “mother ship” of terroir. The domaine Edouard Delaunay is not well-known today. Even though the family’s wine business dates back to 1893, the estate had fallen into near oblivion, until it was recently rescued by fifth generation descendent Laurent Delaunay. Delaunay has access to some impeccable plots, but of all the wines we tasted, we loved this Pommard “Les Frémiers” the best. (The word comes from fremyer, Old French for “robust.”) Wild and lively, the wine felt like a racehorse coming, full force, right out of the starting gate. Lots of earthiness and peatiness followed, plus notes of violets, cherries, and a delicious streak of salinity. Both dramatic and elegant, it was a wine none of us could stop drinking.