2018 Kumeu River Wines Kumeu Village Chardonnay

When compared with the almost severe austerity of this renowned Chardonnay producer's upper-tier wines, this entry-level one is downright boisterous. Bright gold in hue, it billows melon and stone fruit with undertones of honey and sea salt. The palate crunches with crystalline acidity wrapped up in texture that is simultaneously slippery and powdery, with a long, salt-flecked finish. Drink now and over the next few years.