2017 Hospices de Beaune Volnay Cuvée Gauvain

Heady notes of smoke and incense introduce this ripe but restrained and earthen wine sourced from vineyards south of Volnay in Meursault. Flavors of roasted black plum and cherry on the palate are muted by hints of fresh clay and black-tea leaves. Fine-grained, taut tannins grip the finish but the wine is showing maturity already and will be best enjoyed through 2026.