1996 Noble Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs

97 POINTS: This bottle was disgorged in September of 2021 and dosed at 3g/L, and that low dosage accentuates the intense structure and racy tension of the vintage, as well as the wine’s briny salinity on the finish. Malic acidity is enormously present, not out of balance but clearly driving the whole, and feeling almost electric in its vibrancy and energy. It’s not overly austere, though, as its fruit is concentrated as well, expanding on the palate in velvety presence and beginning to move towards secondary notes of dried or confit-like flavours while remaining very taut and lively. This is superb, and it works well as a late release, with the textural richness of long lees ageing contributing to the wine’s overall harmony. Its intense character will delight some and put off others, but that polarising aspect is intrinsic to the vintage.