1990 Noble Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs

97 POINTS: From a vintage of fabulous mature fruit, this Chardonnay bucks the trend for slight heaviness and fatness in 1990 with a tremendous, buzzing intensity of candied orange, mango, anise and brown sugar notes, evolving with gently nutty, roasted aromas, anise and pot pourri spiciness but never losing its heady freshness. Racing across the palate with beautiful ripeness, nougat richness and still-lifting mousse, it's a tremendous mature blanc de blancs.