1986 Haut-Brion

The 1986 Haut-Brion, served blind at a private dinner in Bordeaux, comes from an ex-château bottle. I must admit that I spent a few moments marveling at the bouquet. It's intense and Margaux-like, perhaps more like a 1985 in style with precocious red fruit, cedar, kirsch and veins of cassis. It blossoms in the glass, revealing excellent minerality, yet never loses that curious Margaux-inspired allure. The palate has finally mellowed like many 1986s appear to be doing. This Haut-Brion is framed by fine tannins, suppler than previous bottles and maybe more filigree. Beautifully balanced from start to finish, it delivers disarming purity on the finish. Ladies and gentlemen, the 1986 Haut-Brion is ready for business.