1983 Noble Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs

94 POINTS: Creamy and generous, this shows a rich depth of fruit that’s accented by mature notes of marzipan, honey, sesame and brioche, feeling fully evolved while remaining lively and focused. This was made from just three crus – Avize, Cramant, and Le Mesnil – and the chalkiness of these terroirs is on full display, infusing the fruit in seamless harmony. Together with the malic acidity it focuses and delineates the flavours, making this feel racy and taut without being overly austere. Unlike the other Champagnes from the ‘70s and ‘80s in this tasting, this was a recent disgorgement from September of 2021, dosed at just 3g/L, and this also contributes to the wine’s racy, linear build. This is at an excellent point of drinking, and it begs to be accompanied by equally refined cuisine.